I also drilled holes to attache them to the frame and did some of the other structural enhancements. Luckily we managed to get in on an early season sale. Hang tight, and I'll post back tomorrow with a list of links so you can see what others have done. If not, you could number the aluminum parts with a Sharpie marker, to make some kind of reference (roof, door, back wall brace, etc.) If you can, it’s best to correct this problem now, before going any further. We were planning to build the entrance at both ends of the booth for better access. I had no trouble ordering them from Harbor Freight. The panels I did sporadically as I prepared them with tape on the ends. The hold-down connectors are tight, but there's nothing to fasten the outer end of the floor plates, so they tip forward and come off. )I gave the operator the SKU number for the bag of clips (29457), and she could not find them. The name of the product I'm testing from Top Secret is their TS-100 Clear Silicone Epoxy, thinned with their TS-101 Thinner. The bolts were easy to replace and the brackets were easy to make. Hope this helps. Then I drill 1/4 inch holes in the appropriate places using the bolt holes in post 7 and the slots in post 14 as guides.Everyone should plan on this remedy if your kit will not stay square when attaching braces 31.The remaining 6 ft. of aluminum angle iron was clamped over the inside of the door arch and drilled and bolted to the door arch to make it rigid.And as other people reported, I was short a dozen bolts. The roof is the worst, with holes a few inches apart in the outer wall of the twinwall polycarbonate. I'd be kind to them!I do think the TS-100 product helped us a bit, but I'm sorry to report that I still only got a bit more than three years out of my second set of Harbor Freight roof panels, even with shadecloth on top year round...in our tough desert climate. I'm wondering if this might be a new kerfuffle with the newer version of the 10x12. I will review your questions and post back as quickly as I can (maybe even later today, if the manual arrives. My husband and I built art fair booths for years, and I agree a unique product background is beneficial. So facing the same restriction, I guess we'd have to just take our greenhouse down. Brainstorming (uselessly)...there are earth-sheltered greenhouses, or pit greenhouses, with part of the wall sunk into the ground. Trying to post fast, as I head out the door. They may have gotten confused in translation (if this is not U.S. made) and converted 0.5 into 5"- even though it should be 0.6, close enough I suppose. Since the greenhouse mostly just sits on top of the base and only really attaches with little clips, you could attach the bottom of the framing directly to the plywood. The front base is now totally different and the doors work very smooth. They will add a small fee for shipping. You have to use part 27, the right door rail, as a splice plate. The doors do slide on the track at the bottom. This is a bag of 130 clips for $15.99 plus $6.99 shipping. We are perlexed, but had a feeling this would happen with such simple construction. Secondly, your deck floor may or may not be airtight; if you’re planning to heat the greenhouse during cold winters, it may be difficult. my plan is to use a sharpie to mark a line above and below on the main structure where the smaller pieces are and then removing the piece, marking a number on the removed piece and inside of the lines on the main structure. If it's any consolation, you'll find the twinwall polycarbonate in your HF kit (even though it's a fairly low quality 4mm twinwall poly) will hold in heat better than glass. Using this method, she verified the roof panels are still available for ordering, for $13.99 each, at least for my model of 10x12 greenhouse (93358. "My newest version of the manual still refers to the arrows marked on the pieces. Today I will go out and search the neighborhood to find them.I really didn't know whether to laugh or cry. However, that’s only because we’ve already built one. I know Harbor Freight has made a few changes to the kit over the years (some parts have changed a bit) but I'm glad the blog overall can still be a bit helpful. They emailed me: "Our warranty for the parts for this product is only 90 days." I am happy with the frame and it wasn't too bad to put together. So happy for you, Lucky! Much of my GH is swathed in Aluminet now, but we have much more sun than you folks.Maybe someone else will chime in here with more experience in painting aluminum. That would be an issue.The backpacks don't have anything to do with green houses we just like the look of it and will make some visual modifications. jdunno@gmail.com. It is now a 1 1/4" wide steel bar the width of the panel, which slides into the bar. Many folks post there with a much wider range of experience than I have, and I'm hoping they will be able to better answer your questions. The two small v-shaped bends in between the feet and the center (let's call them "shoulders") slip a bit behind the panel edge. If Harbor Freight starts mixing up parts between the older and newer kits, and mixing up manuals, we may all have to start drinking heavily.Sorry to hear about the loss of your previous greenhouse, it sounded great. Does the door slide along the metal base? Palram 701944 at $1188.63. Hi Dave,So, you have the newer version of the kit, and I can see the accompanying manual does state the diagonal measurement to be 15'5". BTW, initially the HOA wanted to GH taken down entirely. Can this kit be built without putting in the panels? thanks Sheri!! You can also attach the left door rail, part 26, to part 24 at the same time. I was informed that I can't order them anymore. Seems it would be much stronger. Mutte, thank you so much for writing such a comprehensive post, with information to help others. Sure enough, within a month or so that roof panel came loose (no damage though.) My husband wonders, could you split the difference (meaning, very slightly adjust the base, so the corner to corner measurements are as close to the same as possible? Let me know if I can be of any further help.Sheri. I'm going to try to order them from HF. Their current manual cites the same 90 day warranty. Capture the bottom "foot" in the track, and allow the center curved part of the clip to press down on top of the panel. Exactly! We also simply liked how it looked on the inside of the greenhouse (nice wood always looks and feels warmer than bare steel. Leave the SDS bolt out if your kit does not have the center bolt hole in brace 80. )Sheri, I've installed all the floor plates correctly, with all specified hold-down connectors. What a treasure to find your blog. Dwest, we haven't disassembled one yet. I hope so. Got the 6 ft ramp on sale at Harbor Freight (of course!). But before this kit...I'm not sure I would have had the courage to leap into unknown waters!Sheri, Please check Multiwall Polycarbonate panels made by Polygal. I plan to do the same, this time; no more Harbor Freight roof panels for me, since they've just proven to be a quick cheap fix for a few years...in my climate.If you decide to call HF for the clips, I'd suggest using the same procedure. The 6mm will of course provide you with a bit better heat retention too (nice, since I've read more heat is lost through the roof of greenhouse structures, than through the walls.) The longer I have my greenhouse the more I value using extra clips. I tried again, and chose Option 1 in the phone tree, for placing an order. Good luck with your coming greenhouse! It should be 117 7/16 inches. A few key photos added to the manual would save all of us a few gray hairs!There is a short bolt at the top of parts 16 and 17, and you’re correct that a long bolt is needed at the bottom, where the bolt also goes through the bottom of the diagonal brace. This has only happened to me once in 4 years, but I live in a warm climate. They have two misc assortment nut, washer, & bolt kits. We’re not sure why attaching the metal base to your wooden foundation would warp the metal base out of square, unless your wooden foundation is not quite level, and/or out of square. They are the same clips.Giving them the SKU number when you call will save you the time of waiting for them to look it up, and sometimes avoids confusion, so those are listed below.For the 6x8 greenhouse: Part number 46 panel clip SKU number 27339, set of 72 clips, $9.99 For the 10x12 greenhouse: Part number 53 panel clip SKU number 29457, set of 130 clips, $15.99 These numbers and prices were accurate when I ordered last year in 2013. I think it will last quite a few years and if I have to replace the panels I will do just the top with high quality sheets and something lesser on the sides if and when they need it. My questions are: do I NEED these new parts? It is then a conservatory or sun-room, not a free standing greenhouse. Glad to see it wasn't just us. I meant to type 10x12 greenhouse, not 8x10 (there is no such thing in Harbor Freight.) Wow Darren, that's a shame. My 7 year old son is my helper and very proud of what we are accomplishing- his first big project. With your good attention to detail, I'm not a bit worried about your ability to handle this project well. Or can I assemble that side - including the panels - before I set it up?Wayne. Yes the picture on this post clearly states the bolts sitting freely in the track. Steel and aluminum do not mix. A series of handymen started the job and never returned (once they saw how confusing it was, when looking at the manual “cold.”) The basic greenhouse shell was finally completed with the help of a kind and patient neighbor, some time later. This technique is called, Avoiding Unnecessary Math, but that may be a personal quirk of mine. I find the clips fit a bit tighter in the tracks in the corner posts...because the flange that catches the "feet" is just a tad smaller on the corner posts, so they require a bit more effort to click into place. Every way I attempted to attach the braces 31, they pulled the walls out of square. 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